Uzbekistan and the Ancient Silk Road

Our Silk Road adventure begins at London Heathrow as we meet our fellow travellers and Tour Manager to board an overnight flight to Urgench, via Istanbul. The capital of Uzbekistan's Khorezm region, Urgench sits near to the mighty Amu Darya River, historically known as the Oxus.

While a largely rural area today, historic Khorezm evokes images of intrepid travellers journeying into a mysterious and enchanting land of deserts, mountains and a long, storied history of hospitality to visitors from far-off places. The influence of the region's learned scholars from the Islamic Golden Age is also remembered to this day, through the likes of mathematician al-Khwarizmi, known as the father of algebra.

An area of major importance on the evocative Silk Road, the cities of Uzbekistan boast a remarkable legacy of culture, innovation, tradition and architecture. From the turquoise domes and towering madrasa entrances of its magical Silk Road cities to the crumbling fortresses and yurt camps of its sprawling deserts, this welcoming central Asian country - one of only two doubly landlocked countries in the world - makes for an unforgettable destination.

Arriving in Urgench early this morning, we transfer to our wonderful hotel in the heart of Khiva's UNESCO-listed Old City. Located in a former madrasa, a historic Islamic institution of learning, rooms are reached from an authentic and serene courtyard.

There is time to relax before we begin our Silk Road explorations in the astonishing Old City of Khiva, called Itchan-Kala. This stunning walled town contains many historic baked-brick buildings dating from the 9th to the 19th centuries and, due to its remarkably well-preserved condition, is often dubbed the 'largest open-air museum in the world'.

Historically the spot where caravans would rest before crossing the desert to Persia, this mighty fortress and its four looming gates are an awe-inspiring sight to behold. This afternoon, we take an insightful guided sightseeing tour. Strolling through living history amongst narrow streets dappled with stall holders and caravanserais, we visit the Djuma Mosque which contains original 10th-century carved wooden pillars.

This evening, we enjoy our first dinner together at a local restaurant, tasting popular Uzbek cuisine.

After breakfast, we travel by coach across the Amy Darya River for a journey into the vast Kyzylkum desert.

This wild, arid landscape stretches across Uzbekistan and into neighbouring Kazakhstan and translates as 'red sand'. Scarcely populated, the desert is home to Bactrian camels and a chain of ancient hilltop citadels in the 'Fifty Fortress Oasis'. Meaning 'Earth City', Toprak-Kala is believed to be an ancient palace city dating from the 1st century and is our first destination today. Zoroastrian wall paintings and Greek-style sculptures were discovered on the site that is thought to have been an early capital of Khorezm. Visiting the intriguing remains of Ayaz-Kala next, we encounter a garrison that is suspected to be even older.

For lunch, we head into the desert to a yurt camp and dine in these decorative, circular tents traditionally used by nomadic herders of the central Asian steppes. Returning to Khiva, there is time to relax before a memorable dinner as we're treated to a colourful and enjoyable performance by a traditional Khorezm folklore troupe.

Leaving magical Khiva after breakfast, we travel by coach into the Kyzylkum desert bound for Bukhara. At the height of the Silk Road, this journey would have taken more than a month, while today it can be done in a day. Amidst the intriguing scenes of roaming camels, distant yurts and sand drifting gently across the road, we view everyday rural life in Uzbekistan as stalls plump with fresh watermelon line the streets in small towns.

On arrival in beautiful Bukhara, we check in to our hotel for three nights. Bukhara is a masterpiece of spectacular monuments, ancient labyrinthine streets, authentic trading domes and historic squares. Founded in the 6th century BC, this is one of the finest cities in central Asia and a major stopping-off point on the Silk Road, with much of the city's wealth of architecture dating from this prosperous time.

On arrival, there is the choice to unwind or step out from our centrally located hotel before returning for dinner this evening.

• Dinner

The timeless tapestry of the Silk Road unravels in front of our eyes this morning as we delve into the architectural and cultural heritage of Bukhara on a fascinating guided tour.

This enduring city brims with beautiful buildings, traditional roadside inns called caravanserai and Turkish-style baths as we are introduced to the Ulugbek madrasa and the trading domes - ornate bazaars where jewellers and moneychangers carried out business in bygone days. Walking the attractive streets, a jaw-dropping reveal greets us at the magnificent Po-i-Kalyan complex. The 16th-century Kalan Mosque stands confidently beside the soaring 12th-century minaret opposite the striking Mir-i-Arab madrasa.

Later, we head to the Ark of Bukhara. This spectacular 5th-century fortress is the oldest structure in this ancient city and was home to emirs, poets and scholars. There is time to explore the museums and exhibits in former royal quarters before visiting a puppet workshop to learn about the art of handcrafted theatrical marionettes.

We enjoy a highlight of our adventure this evening as we take part in a cooking masterclass with dinner, preparing the region's most popular dishes.

Bukhara continues to disclose its fabled history during a visit to the Bahauddin Naqshband Memorial Complex. This decorative tomb commemorates the 14th-century founder of the Naqshbandi order of Sufism and the spiritual mentor of Timur.

Our tour continues as we visit the former home of Fayzulla Khodjaev, leader of the Bukharan People's Soviet Republic after the Russian Revolution, to discover the lifestyle of wealthy residents in the early 20th century. Next, we take the Chor Minor, a historic madrasa gatehouse with four symmetrical, dome-capped towers that were formerly used by students as a library.

There is a free afternoon to enjoy at leisure before dinner at a local restaurant. You could shop for beautiful scarves and artworks in the bazaars, soak up the atmosphere of Bukhara's ancient streets or relax beside the pond or gardens of the Laub-i-Hauz, sheltered by centuries-old trees.

Covering much of modern-day central Asia, from Uzbekistan's Ferghana Valley through Afghanistan and Turkmenistan to Iran, the Samanid Empire had its capital in Bukhara. Such was the influence of this 10th-century emirate, that Bukhara rivalled Baghdad in importance. The only surviving Samanid monument is the impressive mausoleum that we visit this morning. The gorgeous intricately carved brickwork signified a new era in Persian and central Asian architecture when it was built in the early 900s and its detail - inside and out - is jaw-dropping.

Transferring to the train station in nearby Kogon, we board the modern, high-speed Afrosiyob train to Samarkand - the capital of the Samanid Empire before Bukhara. A melting pot of cultures, this evocative city changed hands multiple times over the centuries, coming under the rule of both Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan. However, Samarkand is more synonymous with the romance of the Silk Road, being at the crossroads of global cultures for more than 2,500 years.

On arrival in one of the world's oldest cities, we check in to our hotel where we have dinner this evening.

A prince of a small tribe, Tamerlane - or Timur - defeated Genghis Khan's son to become ruler of a medieval empire stretching from India to Turkey. Fearsome warrior Tamerlane knew the importance of the Silk Road and set out to control it, with Samarkand as his capital.

Dubbed "the noblest public square in the world", Samarkand's fabled Registan is the most famous site along the Silk Road. Started in 1420, the spellbinding patterns and exquisite adornments of the three madrasas are truly a sight to behold.

Our guided tour takes in the Registan, as well as the astonishing Bibi-Khanym Mosque and the bustling Siyob Bazaar before exploring the ornate Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis, reputedly containing the tomb of the Prophet Muhammad's cousin. At the lavish Gur Emir Mausoleum, we find Tamerlane's tomb, a decorative structure which influenced the design of the Taj Mahal.

A visit to the fascinating Meros Silk Paper Centre details how local artisans make paper using mulberry bark. Then, before dinner at a restaurant, we enjoy a dance show at the Theatre of Historical Costume.

Key players in the Silk Road, the merchants of ancient Sogdiana bridged the gap between east and west for centuries. One of their most important settlements was Afrasiyab. At this lost hilltop city destroyed during Genghis Khan's invasion, we learn about the palaces and bathhouses, and view Sogdian frescoes showing Chinese and Turkish merchants exchanging silk.

Continuing to the remarkable Observatory of Ulugh Beg, we learn more about the influence of Tamerlane's grandson. A gifted mathematician, the scholarly sultan was also one of the most respected astronomers of his era and his observatory drew scientists from across Asia, who helped inform our knowledge of astronomy to this day.

Embracing an authentic culinary experience, we join a local family for a traditional lunch, before boarding a comfortable Afrosiyob train to the capital, Tashkent. Here, we enjoy dinner at a restaurant before checking in to our hotel.

We embark on a guided sightseeing tour of central Asia's largest city after breakfast, uncovering its history that stretches back nearly 2,000 years.

Our first destination of Rakhimov's Ceramics Studio, where we have a tour of this impressive workshop that continues the legacy of this time-honoured craft. Tashkent itself is a pleasingly varied city of assertive Soviet-style architecture, traditional Uzbek buildings, green open spaces and bustling bazaars. In Khast Imam Square, we view the ornately decorated sandy coloured mosques, madrasas and minarets that gather round a sedate square in what has been Tashkent's spiritual centre for centuries.

We also view the 16th-century Kukeldash Madrasa, an excellent example of Islamic architecture, with rich blue decorations on the portals and attractive mosaics on the minarets. After exploring the spice and food stalls at Chorsu Bazaar, we board the Tashkent metro. One of the most beautiful underground railways in the world, the unique stations are each individually decorated with elaborate Art Deco chandeliers and futuristic finishings.

This evening, we gather at a local restaurant for our final dinner together as a group.

This incredible Silk Road adventure draws to a close as we are transferred to Tashkent airport with a picnic breakfast for our early flight back to London Heathrow via Istanbul.

Saying a fond farewell to incredible Uzbekistan, we can look back at the fantastic sights we have witnessed during our time in central Asia. From Khiva's wonderland of authentic streets in the 'largest open-air museum in the world' and the ethereal hilltop fortresses of the Kyzylkum desert to atmospheric Bukhara's jaw-dropping mosques and madrasas, we have travelled through history in the footsteps of intrepid traders centuries before. Samarkand's spectacular glory as the centre of the Silk Road shone through in Afrasiyab and the astonishing Registan, while Tashkent's sparkling metro and bustling bazaars showcased how modern Uzbekistan sits side by side with timeless tradition.

A fascinating and friendly country, Uzbekistan has provided us with many treasured memories.